The 2016 Haut-Marbuzet is a brilliant vintage for this Saint-Estèphe reference point. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of blackberries and cassis mingled with subtle hints of exotic spices, cigar wrapper, vanilla pod and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a tightly wound core, ripe structuring tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Readers will have a hard time choosing between the gourmand, extrovert 2019 and the more reserved, serious 2016, but I suspect that at age 20, it's the latter that will stand out as the finest Haut-Marbuzet of the decade.

This estate, owned by the Duboscq family, is a leading light in the appellation, as this wine's rich tannins demonstrate. Balanced with serious fruit and good concentration, the wine is dense and full bodied while also stylish. Drink from 2024.

The 2016 Haut-Marbuzet has a straightforward bouquet of brambly red fruit, a little rustic in style but gaining finesse with aeration. The palate offers sappy red fruit, a bit chewy in the mouth with a little toughness toward the finish. Give this Saint- Estèphe another couple of years. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.